{"id":8872,"date":"2023-02-17T12:29:00","date_gmt":"2023-02-17T12:29:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/?p=8872"},"modified":"2026-10-28T13:10:26","modified_gmt":"2026-10-28T13:10:26","slug":"perfumers-raw-materials","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/en\/perfumers-raw-materials\/","title":{"rendered":"The Perfumer&#8217;s Raw Materials"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Raw materials are key ingredients in the composition of perfumes, whether natural\u2014obtained by various extraction methods\u2014or synthetic. The composer-perfumer selects them for their olfactory qualities and combines them to create unique, lasting fragrances.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Natural Plant Raw Materials<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Natural raw materials in perfumery are ingredients obtained from plants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Plants are the first source of the natural raw materials used in the composition of perfumes: flowers, stems, wood, fruits, leaves, roots, seeds\u2026 everything is usable, and the extraction methods vary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The Different Extraction Processes for Natural Raw Materials<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Various techniques are used to best capture the essence of each material.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Distillation is the most common method for extracting essential oils from plants. Distillation uses steam to separate the oils from the plants. By decanting, one obtains on one side the essential oil or essence, and on the other plant water that can be used in cosmetics or for cooking (example: rose water, orange blossom water\u2026).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Cold expression, called &#8220;Pelatrice,&#8221; consists of cold-pressing fruit zests to extract the essential oil\/essence. It is the most common method for extracting oil from citrus fruits. The so-called Sfuma Torchio expression presses whole fruits and makes it possible to obtain an essential oil\/essence that is just as zesty but a little more gourmand.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Enfleurage is an ancestral technique that consists of spreading flower petals on a plate of animal or plant fat that will absorb their odorant molecules. Once saturated with smell, it is filtered to obtain a pomade that can be used as is or else washed with alcohol and filtered to obtain a pure essence called an absolute. As this method is long and very costly, it is practically no longer used. It has been replaced by\u2026<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Volatile solvent extraction. Solvents such as benzene, ethanol or hexane have, like fat, the property of absorbing odorous materials. Depending on the fragility of the ingredients, it can be done hot or cold. This technique is often used to extract raw materials that are difficult to process by distillation, such as flowers and leaves. The plants are placed in an extractor containing a solvent that circulates several times. Once saturated with smell, it is evaporated in order to obtain a highly fragrant paste, called a concrete (for flowers) or a resinoid (for dry materials such as roots or mosses). This paste is then melted and cleaned with alcohol to obtain one waxy phase and one alcoholic phase. The alcoholic phase is distilled to remove the alcohol, and one thus obtains an absolute.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Infusion, another ancestral technique, consists of leaving plants to macerate in an oil or alcohol for a prolonged period in order to dissolve the odorous principles and recover a tincture. This method is often used to extract raw materials from roots, resins and woods.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Headspace and Nature Print make it possible to capture the volatile smell of a material. Indeed, a flower cut to be distilled or extracted by solvent will not have the smell it can give off when it is still alive (the scent of a rose essence is very different from that of a fresh rose into which one might plunge one&#8217;s nose). This is what this technology sets out to reproduce. A glass bell is placed above the material, through which a gas current is passed. The gas impregnated with odorous material is absorbed by a carbon filter. This filter is analysed thanks to a chromatograph and a mass spectrometer, which will deliver the composition in odorant molecules. Once the list of molecules is identified, they can be reproduced in order to obtain an ACCORD reconstituting the smell of the fresh extracted material. For Nature Print, instead of a bell, a syringe is used to capture the odorous substances.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Supercritical CO2 extraction, also called Softact, is the most recent technique. The principle is to replace volatile solvents with CO2. The latter has the particularity of transforming from the gaseous state to the &#8220;supercritical&#8221; state (dense like a liquid but fluid like a gas) when put under pressure (70 bars) and at a temperature of 30\u00b0C. It then has the same properties as a solvent without using high temperatures that can denature the materials. In addition to being ecological (the CO2 is recycled) and respectful of the material, this innovative process makes it possible to obtain extracts of exceptional quality and purity.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Each of these techniques has its advantages and disadvantages in terms of cost, quality and quantity of oil produced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Raw Material Sourcers<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The job of a sourcer in perfumery consists of finding and supplying quality raw materials for perfumers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This involves establishing relationships with raw material suppliers, assessing the quality and stability of raw materials, negotiating prices and guaranteeing the regulatory compliance of raw materials. Sourcers must also be able to find rare and hard-to-find raw materials for perfumers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sourcers have a thorough knowledge of raw materials in perfumery, as well as of the processes of extraction and transformation of raw materials. They must also be familiar with quality and safety regulations for the raw materials used in perfumery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A sourcer is able to work closely with perfumers to understand their raw-material needs and to help them find the most suitable ingredients for their project.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In summary, the job of a sourcer in perfumery is a key role for perfumers and perfume manufacturers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Natural Animal Raw Materials<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Raw materials of animal origin have been used for their odorous characteristics for hundreds of years. They are generally used as a fixative, found in the base notes of perfume compositions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/en\/what-is-white-musk\/\">Animal musk<\/a> comes from a sexual secretion produced by the male musk deer of the Himalayas during the rutting season. It is found in a pouch hidden under the animal&#8217;s belly. Generally obtained by killing the animal, the use of this raw material has been banned since 1979.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Les Muscs Blancs : c\u2019est quoi ?\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/MgFqnnhARm8?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Civet adds an animalic, musky note to a perfume. It is obtained from the perianal gland of the animal, a small mammal, a kind of small wild cat, found in Africa (Ethiopia) and Asia. The production of this civet musk often involves confining civets in captivity and regularly harvesting their glands, which can cause pain and discomfort for the animals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Castoreum is an oily, odorous secretion from the perianal glands of the beaver, serving it to mark its territory and waterproof its coat. Its smell, strong at first, can be soft, leathery and suave when treated. This highly prized raw material often involves hunting the beaver to obtain this substance, which causes, like musk and civet, ethical concerns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ambergris is used in perfumery to add a marine, animalic, ambery and tobacco note to a perfume. It is an intestinal concretion due to an irritation caused by the molluscs poorly digested by the animal. The whale naturally expels this substance through its digestive system. This raw material floats on the sea and, in contact with the sun and salt, dries and finally washes up on the beaches where this kind of waxy stone is collected. It is generally subjected to a cleaning and purification process to remove impurities and obtain a pure substance usable in perfumery. Owing to its rarity and the complexity of its formation, ambergris is precious and therefore very costly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Beeswax, also used as a fixative, brings to the perfume its warm, round, honeyed notes, which can also exhale leather or tobacco facets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Most of these raw materials are today controversial owing to ethical and environmental concerns. Synthetic alternatives are often used to replace these ingredients.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Synthetic Raw Materials<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/3-1-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2104\" srcset=\"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/3-1-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/3-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/3-1-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/3-1-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/3-1-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/3-1-1920x1080.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/3-1-600x338.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Synthetic products, for their part, are made in the laboratory from molecules of natural or synthetic origin. They are used to reinforce natural fragrances, give them relief, and to imitate natural aromas that are difficult to obtain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The history of synthetic raw materials in perfumery dates back to the end of the 19th century, when, during the Industrial Revolution, the French scientists Paul Parquet and Georges Darzens began to synthesise odorant molecules in the laboratory. Before that, perfumers used exclusively natural raw materials to create fragrances. However, these raw materials were costly, rare and sometimes difficult to obtain in sufficient quantity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The choice to create synthetic raw materials is also part of a dynamic of innovation. It is not only about reproducing already-existing natural smells, but also about creating new smells that make perfumes unique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">To cite a few examples, this is the case of aldehydes, which give a metallic, soapy smell to the perfume&#8217;s composition and make it possible to illuminate a bouquet. Ernest Beaux dared to use them for the first time in overdose in Chanel N\u00b05, a feat that made the perfume unique and recognisable above all others.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vanillin, used by Jacques Guerlain, an emblematic component of Shalimar and of his Guerlinade, gives gourmand vanilla scents.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kenzo pour Homme, created by Christian Mathieu, has the characteristic of incorporating calone, giving that scent of marine, slightly aqueous freshness to the perfume.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Of course, one thinks of <a href=\"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/en\/angel-thierry-mugler\/\">Angel by Mugler<\/a>, created by Olivier Cresp, who had the wonderful idea of adding ethyl maltol to the perfume, with its addictive notes of candyfloss, caramel and praline.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Over time, synthetic raw materials have become increasingly popular in perfumery, since they offer greater stability and greater consistency in perfumes, as well as a more affordable cost compared to natural raw materials\u2014even though some can sometimes be very expensive to develop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">They also make it possible to reproduce the scents of mute flowers (which do not give up their essence: e.g. lily of the valley, lilac, peony\u2026), of materials that have become banned (animal materials and allergenic substances).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">They also avoid the overexploitation of soils and remedy production problems caused by ecological disasters (fires, floods, drought\u2026). And above all, they enrich the perfumer&#8217;s palette.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<style>\n.cta-matieres {\n  margin: 50px 0;\n  background: #99cdef;\n  border-radius: 18px;\n  overflow: hidden;\n  font-family: 'Open Sans', Arial, sans-serif;\n}\n\n.cta-matieres-inner {\n  display: grid;\n  grid-template-columns: 55% 45%;\n  align-items: stretch;\n}\n\n.cta-matieres-text {\n  padding: 36px 32px;\n  display: flex;\n  flex-direction: column;\n  justify-content: center;\n  box-sizing: border-box;\n}\n\n.cta-matieres-image {\n  min-height: 320px;\n}\n\n.cta-matieres-image img {\n  width: 100%;\n  height: 100%;\n  min-height: 320px;\n  object-fit: cover;\n  display: block;\n}\n\n.cta-matieres-button {\n  display: inline-block;\n  background: #e61e8a;\n  color: #fff !important;\n  text-decoration: none;\n  font-size: 13px;\n  font-weight: 700;\n  letter-spacing: .4px;\n  padding: 14px 24px;\n  border-radius: 30px;\n}\n\n@media (max-width: 650px) {\n  .cta-matieres-inner {\n    grid-template-columns: 1fr;\n  }\n\n  .cta-matieres-text {\n    padding: 30px 24px;\n  }\n\n  .cta-matieres-image,\n  .cta-matieres-image img {\n    min-height: 260px;\n  }\n}\n<\/style>\n\n<div class=\"cta-matieres\">\n  <div class=\"cta-matieres-inner\">\n\n    <div class=\"cta-matieres-text\">\n\n      <p style=\"font-size:12px;font-weight:700;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:1.5px;margin:0 0 10px 0;\">\n        TEST YOUR NOSE\n      <\/p>\n\n      <h3 style=\"font-size:28px;line-height:1.2;margin:0 0 16px 0;font-family:sans-serif;\">\n        Will you be able to recognise raw materials? \ud83d\udc43\n      <\/h3>\n\n      <p style=\"font-size:16px;line-height:1.65;margin:0 0 25px 0;\">\n        Woody, floral, spicy\u2026 Some smells seem familiar. But could you really identify them?\n        <br><br>\n        <strong>\n          With the Master Parfums Olfactory Game, train your sense of smell, recognise raw materials and test your perfume culture.\n        <\/strong>\n      <\/p>\n\n      <div>\n        <a href=\"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/en\/olfactory-games\/?ref=article_matieres_premieres\"\n           class=\"cta-matieres-button\">\n          DISCOVER THE OLFACTORY GAME \u2192\n        <\/a>\n      <\/div>\n\n    <\/div>\n\n    <div class=\"cta-matieres-image\">\n      <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/game-olfactory-master-parfum-L-1.webp\"\n           alt=\"Master Parfums Olfactory Game\">\n    <\/div>\n\n  <\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">IFRA Safety Standards<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ifrafragrance.org\/\">IFRA<\/a> (the International Fragrance Association) is a global organisation that defines safety standards for raw materials in perfumery. IFRA establishes restrictions on the use of certain raw materials owing to their potential harmfulness to health or to the environment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">These restrictions can include limits on the quantity of raw material that can be used in a product, specific conditions of use, or a total ban on the use of certain raw materials. Perfumers must follow IFRA standards to guarantee the safety of their products and their regulatory compliance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It is important to note that IFRA restrictions are not mandatory, but perfumers are encouraged to follow them to guarantee the safety of their products and their compliance with the regulations in force. Perfumers can also choose to follow stricter standards than those of IFRA to guarantee the safety of their products.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Natural or synthetic, each raw material adds a distinct note to the final perfume and can influence the fragrance according to the quantity used. Depending on trends, some raw materials are more prized than others. The advent of synthetic raw materials gives an infinity of possibilities for olfactory compositions, to our great delight!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"margin-top:60px;font-family:'Open Sans', Arial, sans-serif;\">\n\n<h3 style=\"font-size:24px;margin-bottom:25px;font-family:sans-serif;text-transform:uppercase;\">\nYOU MAY ALSO LIKE &#8230;\n<\/h3>\n\n<div style=\"display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(220px,1fr));gap:20px;\">\n\n<a href=\"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/en\/olfactory-families-perfumery\/?ref=article_matieres_premieres\"\nstyle=\"text-decoration:none;color:#000;border:1px solid #eee;border-radius:12px;padding:20px;background:#fff;display:block;\">\n<span style=\"background:#99cdef;color:#fff;font-size:12px;padding:4px 8px;border-radius:6px;text-transform:uppercase;font-weight:700;\">\nTHE OLFACTORY PALETTE\n<\/span>\n<h4 style=\"margin-top:12px;font-size:18px;font-family:sans-serif;\">\nOlfactory Families in Perfumery\n<\/h4>\n<\/a>\n\n<a href=\"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/en\/top-heart-base-notes-perfumery\/?ref=article_matieres_premieres\"\nstyle=\"text-decoration:none;color:#000;border:1px solid #eee;border-radius:12px;padding:20px;background:#fff;display:block;\">\n<span style=\"background:#ffb905;color:#fff;font-size:12px;padding:4px 8px;border-radius:6px;text-transform:uppercase;font-weight:700;\">\nPERFUME SECRETS\n<\/span>\n<h4 style=\"margin-top:12px;font-size:18px;font-family:sans-serif;\">\nTop, Heart and Base Notes in Perfumery\n<\/h4>\n<\/a>\n\n<a href=\"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/en\/shalimar-turns-100-story-legendary-perfume\/?ref=article_matieres_premieres\"\nstyle=\"text-decoration:none;color:#000;border:1px solid #eee;border-radius:12px;padding:20px;background:#fff;display:block;\">\n<span style=\"background:#b7db7c;color:#fff;font-size:12px;padding:4px 8px;border-radius:6px;text-transform:uppercase;font-weight:700;\">\nBRANDS, PERFUMES &amp; TIPS\n<\/span>\n<h4 style=\"margin-top:12px;font-size:18px;font-family:sans-serif;\">\nShalimar Turns 100\n<\/h4>\n<\/a>\n\n<\/div>\n\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Before it becomes an olfactory masterpiece, a perfume is first a skilful blend of materials from the four corners of the world. Discover the perfumer&#8217;s extraordinary palette.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":2102,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[65],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8872","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-perfume-secrets"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>The Perfumer&#039;s Raw Materials - Master Parfums<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Discover the perfumer&#039;s raw materials: natural ingredients, synthetic materials and the extraction processes used in perfumery.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/masterparfums.com\/en\/perfumers-raw-materials\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Perfumer&#039;s Raw Materials - 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