The Fougère Olfactory Family in Perfumery
Welcome to an olfactory journey through history, in which we explore the fougère olfactory family. Perhaps you are already a lover of these perfumes, or perhaps you are simply curious to learn more about this olfactory family. Either way, this article will let you discover the history and the secrets of the fougère accord.
History of the Fougère Olfactory Family
Origins
The fougère olfactory family owes its name to the perennial plant of the same name (fern), even though the plant is not present in the composition of these perfumes.
This family has its origin in the Victorian era, with a fragrance that shook up the world of perfumery and is still in production more than a century after its creation: Fougère Royale by the house of Houbigant.
Created in 1884 by the perfumer Paul Parquet, this fragrance is often described as the first “fougère” in the history of perfume. This subtle blend of bergamot, lavender, geranium, coumarin and oakmoss set a precedent for masculine perfumes, and thus the fougère olfactory family was born.¹
Coumarin, the Key Molecule of the Fougère Note
Fougère Royale was revolutionary in several respects. Paul Parquet used, for the first time, a freshly discovered synthetic raw material: coumarin, a molecule isolated from the tonka bean. This coumarin, combined with lavender and oakmoss notes, made it possible to create a fragrance that evoked the verdant freshness of a forest—hence the name “fougère” (fern).
It is interesting to note that although the fern itself does not produce an essence usable in perfumery, the accord created by Parquet was so evocative of nature that the name endured. And since ferns are plants that have existed for millions of years, present on every continent (except Antarctica), it is easy to understand why this name has a universal resonance.
After the release of Fougère Royale, the fougère accord became a pillar of perfumery, notably for masculine perfumes. Indeed, the balance of the accord thus formed creates a base that lends itself perfectly to the characteristic masculine notes of the era, such as spices, citrus and woody notes.
The Evolution of the Fougère Family
Jicky by Guerlain, created in 1889, marks an even sharper break, paving the way for abstract perfumes. This perfume, which generously incorporates synthetic ingredients such as coumarin and vanillin, marks a turning point in the history of perfumery. However, the avant-garde nature of Jicky was too bold for the women of the time. It was rather in masculine artistic and intellectual circles that it would find its audience,² the clean, lavender notes evoking the products used at the barber’s. Indeed, lavender was used by barbers after shaving, for its antiseptic and soothing properties.
Throughout the 20th century, many perfume houses created their own interpretations of the fougère accord. Perfume houses that all followed the example of Fougère Royale, adding their own twists, interpreting and modernising the fougère base.
Thus, the history of the fougère olfactory family is in reality the history of constant innovation and evolution, from the first use of coumarin to the diversity of fougère perfumes available today. It is a history that demonstrates the power of perfumery to evoke nature and to create perfumes that, while deeply rooted in the past, can still claim to be contemporary.
Characteristics of the Fougère Accord
Perfumes of the fougère family are characterised by a harmonious composition that combines aromatic notes, floral heart notes, and woody, musky base notes.
This abstract accord is generally composed of four main elements:
Top Note
Lavender: This aromatic plant, with its fresh, clean scent, serves as the top note in the fougère accord. It delivers the first burst that catches the attention and often invites aromatic notes (sage, rosemary, mint, etc.) and hesperidic notes (citrus) into its invigorating whirlwind.
Heart Note
Rose geranium: with its characteristic rosy, green and bursting note.
Base Note
Coumarin. This molecule is naturally present in several plants such as cut hay, the tonka bean or sweet clover (melilot). Its scent is soft, slightly herbaceous and vanilla-tinged, sometimes almondy, and it gives fougère perfumes their soft, rounded character.
It is enveloped in woody notes such as oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, and leathery notes that give the fragrance depth and longevity.
All these elements create an accord that is at once dynamic and woody, soft and robust. A complexity that evokes the freshness of the undergrowth and the softness of verdant mosses.
It is this balance that makes the fougère accord such a precious component in perfumery. It has a complexity that allows it to stand alone, but it also has the flexibility to marry with other olfactory families, allowing perfumers to create fragrances that are at once familiar and surprising.
The Use of the Fougère Olfactory Family in Perfumery
The fougère accord has often been used for men’s perfumes; it is, moreover, the olfactory signature of shaving products and other typically masculine aftershaves. However, many perfumers are making this fougère base increasingly universal.
It is a versatile family in perfumery, which makes it particularly attractive for a multitude of fragrant compositions. At once classic and innovative, it occupies an important place in masculine perfumes, and also appears in a few feminine perfumes.
In masculine perfumes, the fougère accord offers a herbaceous freshness and a woody depth, while conferring a touch of sophistication and refinement. It is often accentuated by spicy or woody notes, such as sandalwood, cedar or black pepper.
For feminine perfumes, the fougère accord is often softened by floral notes such as rose, jasmine or iris, or by fruity notes such as peach, pear or raspberry. These perfumes can be at once deep and mysterious, but also soft and romantic, depending on the other notes used in the composition.
In general, the fougère accord allows great freedom of expression. It can be paired with aquatic notes to create fresh, invigorating perfumes, or with ambery notes for oriental, sensual perfumes.
The use of the fougère olfactory family demonstrates its ability to transcend genders, eras and styles. Whether for fresh, revitalising perfumes, romantic, seductive perfumes, or mysterious, sophisticated perfumes, the fougère olfactory family always has its place in the modern perfume market.
Examples of Perfumes from the Fougère Family
Fougère Royale by Houbigant, 1882, by Paul Parquet, as mentioned earlier, is the patriarch of this family. With its combination of lavender, geraniol and oakmoss, it defined the basic structure of the fougère accord.
Jicky by Guerlain arrives in 1889; in addition to its traditional fougère structure, the vanillin answering the coumarin makes the whole rounder and more almondy. One of the first unisex perfumes of the era, it highlights so-called “abstract” perfumes.
Pour Un Homme by Caron was created by Ernest Daltroff in 1934. With a fresh lavender, it is a consensual opening; however, instead of opting for a traditional coumarin and oakmoss base, Daltroff chose to use a warm, sensual vanilla, creating an unexpected contrast that made “Pour Un Homme” a one-of-a-kind perfume: masculine and enveloping. A duality between an aromatic freshness that gives way to an ambery, vanilla-tinged, almost powdery base. A perfume that spans the ages.
Brut by Fabergé was created in 1964 by Karl Mann. It opens on fresh, aromatic top notes with lemon, bergamot, basil and anise. The heart is composed of floral notes of jasmine, geranium and ylang-ylang, typical of the fougère accord. The base notes are warm and woody, with vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss and tonka bean. What makes “Brut” so special is its distinctive, unforgettable character. It embodies the image of virility with its robust, hyper-masculine fougère accord.
Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche, by Pierre Wargnye, was launched in 1982. It modernises the fougère base with a new material in perfumery: dihydromyrcenol. Until then used in detergents, its powerful clean freshness evokes the smell of a well-ironed white shirt that the exaggeratedly muscular, tanned man of the era slips on as he steps out of the shower. It adds a zesty, fruity note of citrus and pineapple and a base of resin, spices and wood to create this enigmatic, charismatic perfume.
Fougère Bengale by Parfum d’Empire: In 2007, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato created this spicy, sweet perfume with notes of tobacco, resin, ginger and vanilla. The start is composed of lavender, ginger, tea notes and mint, bringing freshness and light. The dry notes of tobacco and hay bridge towards a woody, ambery, balmy base carried by oakmoss, tonka bean, patchouli and vanilla, giving a feline, hyper-sensual dimension.
Fougère Furieuse by Mugler, created by Jean-Christophe Hérault and Olivier Polge in 2014, is considered an aromatic fougère. The opening is more herbaceous; at the heart, neroli is added to the traditional geranium; the base is driven by an ambery accord in addition to the tonka bean and oakmoss.
Fougère Émeraude by Les Indémodables, by Florence Fouillet Dubois, in 2016. Although marketed as non-gendered by the brand, it is appreciated by many women owing to its balanced blend of herbaceous and floral notes. Tuberose, lavender and mimosa give the perfume a floral freshness, all on a tonka base.
As we have seen, the fougère olfactory family has a rich history and complex contrasts. It has evolved and adapted over time, but it remains an essential family in perfumery. Perhaps, after reading this article, you will be inspired to try perfumes of the fougère family and perhaps adopt them for good.
¹ Dictionnaire amoureux du Parfum, Elisabeth de Feydeau, page 391
² Une histoire de Parfums, Yohan Cervi, page 15
